Leben Was Geht

Aktivitäten von Gruber Bernhard Losenstein

Mountaineering Dufourspitze 4634m and Nordend 4609m

Hi Mountaineerers!
On sunday we drove with the gornergrat bahn from zermatt to rotenboden. Unfortunately the new monte rosa hut was fully booked. so we had to take our cmaping and biwak gear with us.
We needed 02:48′ from rotenboden to the new monte rosa hütte.
At the gorner glacier we saw many mountain tourist from england and other countries who are staying a night with an alpine guide on the new most modern hut. they hut was the next coming 3 weeks fully booked. 98% of the bookings are mountain tourist who are not willing to climb up a mountain top. so all the “real” mountain aspirants had to sleep in their own tent and bring all the bivouac gear with them.
i want to claim the sac for this bad situation.
i think there should be at least 50% free for the alpinist who wants to do a reservation some days before.
nevertheless we found a nice place with a great view to the matterhorn. at the evening we hiked up to the “obere platte”.
the sunset was really amazing and we slept more or less in our tent.
at 02:20am we stood up and had our small breakfast.
we started at 02:45am and hiked up to the glacie beginning. we passed a group from italy and we struggled through the calving glacier. we walked thorugh crevasse with 20 or more metres depth. sometimes we heard some strange noises from the tenesion when we walked on the glacier. this was not a really great feeling but werner was lucky to find the way thourgh this dangerous part of the glacier.
then we ran up to the monte rosa glacier. the sunrise was amazing too. thanks a lot.
first we had to climb on the steep ice shoulder and then there was a very nice but short rock climbing to the mountain top dufourspitze at 4634m.
we needed 05:30′ for the hiking. then we we abseil down on fixed ropes to the silbersattel and climbed up our second 4000m mountain top on htis day, the nordend 4609m. there was one difficulty grade 3 climbing point on the ridge. really great climbing with the heavy gear in this altitude. there was a lot of cold westerly wind. i flew down with my speedflyer gin yak the glacier until the calving glacier. because it was to dangerous for werner to climb alone through the glacier.
we arrived at 01:45pm our tent and went back to the gornergrat. we reached train at 18:00 and we felt absolutely exhausted. werner slept in the train when we drove down the nice scenery….
you can imagine that we had a good and long night for recovering.
thx for these nice days.
cya on the western alps

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