Leben Was Geht

Aktivitäten von Gruber Bernhard Losenstein

Mountaineering at the Stüdlgrat Großglockner

hi mountain freaks!
last two days we visted the großglockner with michael schmidthaler and me (bernhard gruber)
we drove to kals am großglockner to the lucknerhaus parking lot and walked about 2.5 hours to the stüdlhütte.
after one drink we visited the small mountain behind the hut for sunset.
schmidi did there a nude photo with the großglockner behind, but he didn’t allowed me to publish this picture. i think that’s better so! 😉
the stüdlhütte is big and it feels like a hotel.
on this morning (tuesday) we woke up at 4:40am
at 5:10 we started as the first group without any breakfast uphill over the teischnitzkees to the beginning of the stüdlgrat.
the wind was blowing sometimes really strong, but we managed the glacier and the crevasses without the use of the rope and crampons. the difficulty grade of the stüdlgrat is 3+/A0 and it is about 500 metres of height. one part is 4+ difficulty grade on free climbing.
you can find a topo here.
so it is very important to be in good condition for this alpine tour.
if you are planning to do such a tour with a guide just ask at http://www.glocknerfuehrer.at/ the guided tour for the stüdlgrat cost 320€.
we arrived at 7’o clock the breakfast place. then the first guided tour overtaked us. they were using the shortrope technology. for me thats too dangerous, but nevertheless its fast.
from this point on we did the further tour only with using the rope, because there was ice and snow in this tour. so one fault without rope and you will fall down… then the sun arrived to us and suddenly it was getting warm – wonderful. the sunrise was amazing too. there were some really nice climbing spots and the tour was getting more compact.
we arrived at the mountain top of the großglockner (3798m) after 4hrs:50min. at about 10:00 am. what a nice feeling. for schmidi it was the first ascent to the großglockner, the highest mountain of austria. many mountaineers was trying to go from the kleinglockner to the großglockner over the normal route. on the weekend i think it is not the best mountain top for getting a great mountain feeling.
we climbed down over the normal route to the kleinglockner and the glocknerleitl then the adlersruhe and then crossed the ködnistzkees to the stüdlhut then lucknerhut and then lucknerhaus. at 13:40 we arrived the car and our feet felt really tired after the long descent.
one look back to the großglockner and then we drove back home.
what a nice alpine climbing tour. if you have time just do this tour – you will get satisfied for sure.
if you have good manageable interesting mountaineering plans for this autumn -just let me know – i will have time 😉
cya on the mountains

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