Leben Was Geht

Hi Rockaddicts!
This day, Harry, Patrik, Andi and me, we drove to Hallstatt to climb the via ferrata seewand at this very hot day and fly down with the speedflyer.
we needed 3 hours for the great nice and steep 850m of altitude differerence tour. one handsize stone fell down from the climbers above us and passed patrik 1m’s beside him. in the route we had there really stunning views. amazing!
harry tried to manage all the tour without needing the artificial stuff like the steel cable and so on.
He did very well – Congratulations!
Then we went to the Gjaidalm for lunch. After some important drinks we further up to the krippenstein, and tried to find some starting place for starting our speedflyers. unfortunately the main wind was from southwest and we had some upwind, but everywhere there were so many “Latschen” and the top of the krippenstein is to flat.
the parachute flyers were waiting for some lower wind – thats the difference.
we need more wind , they less. crazy.
nevertheless we went to the fithfingers and then we drove down with the cable car, because the thunder storm was coming.
rather climb down the mountain with the speedflyer in the back than crashing into some rocks at the start with the ass – muhaaa

You start with a bag full of luck and an empty bag of experience.
The Trick is to fill the bag of experience before you empty the bag of luck.

cya on the windy mountains.
bernhard

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On Saturday we left Lago di Santa Croce and we drove to Cortina d’ Ampezzo to hike up some “real” mountains ;))
We started at the Refugio A. Dibona and wanted to climb the Via Ferrata Giovannni Lipella at the Tofana di Rozes.
First you have to climb in a gallery in the mountain.
unfortunately the gallery was full of ice! we thought we can save some weight and had left our crampon in the car. you can imagine the hard action inside the 800m’s of ice gallery.
nevertheless we managed this problem and we had to walk a little bit horziontally to beginning of the via ferrata giovanni lipella. what a name 😉
the via ferrata was really nice with some great views and some waterfalls.
in the middle we reached a passage where the tour was full in ice and we stopped here the tour. after a lunch break harry and patrik climbed up on some bands to the mountain top. i felt not really good because of the strong sun so i climbed down the via ferrata and walked around the area and visited the stunning galleries which were built for the first world war.
patrik and harry flew down to cortina and did there first 2000 metres flight.
in the evening we met mario and robert from guglhupf climbing.
we slept beside the refugio A. Dibona.

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Hello!
Last day i drove with matthias mollner to Grünau in the Almtal with our aim to climb the 42 pitches in the northwall of the schermberg.
thats 1400 metres of altitude difference and normal climbing duration from 8 to 12 hours.
i tried this tour 6 years ago with buchsbaum reinhard, when we walked from 4am from the parking lot outside the gate to the wall. we managed to find the beginning of the tour at half past 10. thats too late for this tour. 🙁 so we holded off on this project.

the first problem is between 15.9 and 15.10 the street to the almtalerhaus is closed due to a hunt lock. so you have to walk 7km’s to the almtalerhaus. aaaah
from the almtalerhaus you must walk again 1.5hrs to the beginning of the wall.

so we drove “ilegal” at 17:15pm to the schermberg northwall. unfortunately one huntersman stopped us and said” he cannot allow this to go further to the almtalerhaus because they are planning to shoot some red deers”.
we explained our important project and the necessity to start early in the morning in the wall. so he allowed us only to sleep near the almtalerhaus, not near the wall – thats too dangerous sleeping in the nature, where the hunters want to shoot their deers. so we were lucky not to cancel the tour.

we find a small storage room near the almtalerhaus where we slept because of the humidity without tent…
during the night we listened many time to the deers. brrrrrrr.

at half past 4 in the morning we woke up and at 5am we started in the darkness with our mountain bikes from the almtalerhaus to the beginning of the schermberg north wall.
at 7:20am after 350 metres of altidude difference of the approach we started the to climb with the 4 tiblocks, so that we can do speed climbing. that does mean you can climb simultaneously, so you can spare a lot of time.
how to use tiblocs

perhaps you remember the film “am limit” from the huber buam. i felt like these guys when we climbed. you can imagine no long breaks only climbing and looking for the right way and take care for loosen stones and give maximum power. really!
the rocks moved like a conveyor. so i call it from now on conveyor climbing – thats my term 😉
i had to economize my luggaage, so i could only took photos with my handy cam 😉
for eating i had only two apples and some cereal bars and three litres of water. thats it.
we found a cave after the first pitch at the direct north ridge.
i walked 10m into the snow vulcano cave and then i through a stone downwards. i think the cave must be big because of the natural ventilation. if i have time i will explore this cave.
enough reported…

at 12:50 we managed the end of climbing and we were standing on the schermberg(2396m) summit. yeaaaaaaaaaaaaaaah
the view was really great. after lunch we climbed the new fixed rope route “tassilo” downwards in 50 minutes 😉
normally you need 3 to 5 hours upwards.

then we find a cool block for bouldering. so matthias and me we said let’s do it. 2km’s of climbing is not enough for us… we managed 3 new boulders and marked the beginning with an arrow. you can try it at the platform before the fixed rope route on the normal way.
2 chamois came up to five metres to us and looked how we try to climb up this block on a difficult way and not trying the easiest… 😉

then we climbed down to our mountains bikes and had a really nice downhill to the ödseen near the almtalerhaus where we did some swimming after this monster tour. what a nice refreshing. the schermberg north wall did a mirror in the lake. amazing nature.
we finished our tour at 17:05 at the parking lot.
it was another really great days in the mountains….
cya bernhard

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Hi Mountain Addicts!
Last two days i went with my former working collegues from Engel St. Valentin to the Gesäuse.
Two years ago our plan was to climb the hochtor. unfortunately there was too much snow at september….
this year we had a little bit more luck. 😉
yesterday we went over the wasserfallweg from gstatterboden to the hesshütte.
we had there good dinner and some beers and some “medicine”.
We were lucky that the hut was not busy as on normal weekend day. so we had our own communal bunks were i could sleep very good. normally i can’t sleep really good in an overcrowded hut because the bad air and the nervous guest at least 4 am…
i think a reason why i could sleep very well was the good and well tested hesshüttn -bräu beer 😉
so in the morning after the good breakfast we started at half past 8 to the hochtor on the josefinensteig. the mountain top was in clouds but the wind was strong so we hoped to get rid of the clouds. the difficult climbing was not a big problem for us more or less well experienced mountaineers. some group members felt a bit scary how they would manage to go down on the same way… 😉
when we reached the ridge johannes w. got a dizzy spell. so he waited there and enjoyed the nice view to the buchstein. from now on we had to walk and climb in the cold windy clouds. brrr.
at 10 to 11 we reached the mountain top of the hochtor (2369m), we could see only clouds. aufreiter thomas was lucky to see the gr. buchstein for 3 seconds. then the clouds has covered again the mountain top – aaaa what a fu**.
meanwhile we enjoyed our lunchtime at a bivouac place. thx for the lunch and cereal bars 😉
lunchtime on a summit is one of the best things to do….
so after 30 minutes we started the same way down to the hesshütte.
it was not a big problem for us to climb down the josefinensteig. after a drink at the hut we decided to go downwards the wasserfallweg to save some time… but it was not so easy to climb down with our old overstressed knees. so i could not suggest for future to climb down after such a tour the wasserfallweg. nevertheless we reached the gstatterboden parking lot and we were happy to managed the hochtor without any accidence 😉
thx for the nice tour! it was a pleasure for me to climb with a motivated and funny group in the gesäuse alps.
cya in the winter time
bernhard!

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hi mountain freaks!
last two days we visted the großglockner with michael schmidthaler and me (bernhard gruber)
we drove to kals am großglockner to the lucknerhaus parking lot and walked about 2.5 hours to the stüdlhütte.
after one drink we visited the small mountain behind the hut for sunset.
schmidi did there a nude photo with the großglockner behind, but he didn’t allowed me to publish this picture. i think that’s better so! 😉
the stüdlhütte is big and it feels like a hotel.
on this morning (tuesday) we woke up at 4:40am
at 5:10 we started as the first group without any breakfast uphill over the teischnitzkees to the beginning of the stüdlgrat.
the wind was blowing sometimes really strong, but we managed the glacier and the crevasses without the use of the rope and crampons. the difficulty grade of the stüdlgrat is 3+/A0 and it is about 500 metres of height. one part is 4+ difficulty grade on free climbing.
you can find a topo here.
so it is very important to be in good condition for this alpine tour.
if you are planning to do such a tour with a guide just ask at http://www.glocknerfuehrer.at/ the guided tour for the stüdlgrat cost 320€.
we arrived at 7’o clock the breakfast place. then the first guided tour overtaked us. they were using the shortrope technology. for me thats too dangerous, but nevertheless its fast.
from this point on we did the further tour only with using the rope, because there was ice and snow in this tour. so one fault without rope and you will fall down… then the sun arrived to us and suddenly it was getting warm – wonderful. the sunrise was amazing too. there were some really nice climbing spots and the tour was getting more compact.
we arrived at the mountain top of the großglockner (3798m) after 4hrs:50min. at about 10:00 am. what a nice feeling. for schmidi it was the first ascent to the großglockner, the highest mountain of austria. many mountaineers was trying to go from the kleinglockner to the großglockner over the normal route. on the weekend i think it is not the best mountain top for getting a great mountain feeling.
we climbed down over the normal route to the kleinglockner and the glocknerleitl then the adlersruhe and then crossed the ködnistzkees to the stüdlhut then lucknerhut and then lucknerhaus. at 13:40 we arrived the car and our feet felt really tired after the long descent.
one look back to the großglockner and then we drove back home.
what a nice alpine climbing tour. if you have time just do this tour – you will get satisfied for sure.
if you have good manageable interesting mountaineering plans for this autumn -just let me know – i will have time 😉
cya on the mountains
bernhard

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Hi!
This day, me (Bernhard Gruber) Phillipp Hochwallner and Franz B. we drove to Ramsau. at the bottom of the hunerkogelbahn franz noticed that he forgot his climbing shoes at his car. what a ****.
so we drove down to ski willy and he bought some new boots. we drove to the mountain station with the cable lift and went down some metres of the hunerkogelscharte, then we climbed the Skywalk Klettersteig. The difficulty grade is E and it has 140 metres of height…
it is a really fascinating klettersteig. woww.
then we crossed the glacier and climbed up the east ridge to the dachstein top. wonderful view. thx for the nice day….

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Heute bin ich um 03:50 aufgestanden und bin mit dem auto nach hinterstoder.
beim aufstieg war die sicht max 2m die ersten 300hm, da so ein dichter nebel war. dann wurde es um einiges besser und ab 07:30 habe ich das erste mal die sonnen gesehen – wahnsinn der gr priel erschien in einem schönen rot!

herrlich die gemsen hat “herunten” aucht etwas futter gesucht.
oben beim schneeloch war aber ca 10cm schnee und der wurde in der traverse leider immer mehr. ich hatte also alleine mit meinen kaputten schuhen keine chance. so entschied ich mich für eine umkehr. naja der gipfel hat eh kein gipfelkreuz zurzeit – wird nächstes jahr erneuert!