Leben Was Geht

Hi extreme bizeps shapers!
yesterday marlene and i drove to strobl in the salzkammergut for climbing the postalmklettersteig.
at the beginning we had a lot of thrill and after the gatt jump we had also a lot of fun in the canyon. 😉
i can recommend this tour for everyone who has more experience then normal and is in good physical and mental condition.
thx for this hot day in the canyon.
have a nice week.
cya bernhard

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Hi extreme deepest boulderers!
Last day, we had the first sunset deepwatersoloing at the kletterkompetenzzentrum camp sibley
we had tons of fun bouldering the 5m wall up an jumping into the warm fresh water!!
muhaa thanks for this great evening!!
cya over, or on the water…
bernhard

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hi fixed rope route rookies!
yesterday andi, klara, marlene and me we drove to mondsee for climbing the fixed rope route drachenwand.
for marlene it was her first tour, so we decided to start later than normal. but we ended also in a big rush hour because of so many climbers in this famous tour.
nevertheless this tour was really great with lot of sun and fun and amazing views around the mondsee.
unfortunately i couldn’t start my speedglider ;(
so andi and me we hiked up to the exit for basejumping. muhaaaaaaaa that must be fun too ? ;))
dreams come true…
cya in the air or rocks
bernhard

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Hi extreme saturday climbers!
last day summit surfer klemens and me we drove to eisenerz with the plan to climb all fixed iron rope routes and fly with our speedglider from the summits.
in the morning at 6am we started at the gemeinde alp and hiked up to the start of the kaiserschild klettersteig. at 8:50 we reached the kaiserschild (2084m). the flight was really great beside the great wall and without wind. yihaaaa.
then we drove to the pfaffenstein parking lot where we started at 10:13 and climbed the eisenerzer klettersteig to the pfaffenstein (1865m) what we reached at 12:25. the start from the pfaffenstein was easy because klemens managed this start with his first trial 😉
at the landing we had to take care from the high voltage cable in the air but not problem for us.
then we drove to the leopoldsteiner see where we did a rest with some radler and some swimming.
at 3pm we started to the kaiser franz joseph klettersteig and had a nice hot climbing in the seemauer wall to the hochblasser (1771m).
at 17:20 we ended the climbing tour and hiked to the launching place. what a nice place there. muhaaa
the flight from the seemauer was really fine, but little bit short.
have a look to the video to get some impressions.

cya at the mountains
bernhard

Hi Exit-Lovers!
Yesterday Harry, Patrik and me we started at 5:00am to the dachstein for climbing the pichlweg. in our backpack we put our speedflyer for flying down the dachstein.
before the climbing start we had to climb and cross a small steep ice field. that was really dangerous because we were so clever to take no crampons with us. aaaaaa
at 7:00am we started as the first team in a 3 person climbing team the pichlweg. the topo you can find here.
it was a really nice and great climbing compared to the more than overcrowed famous steinerweg, which is not more beautiful.
we decided for the best tour.
at 09:50 i got a sms: “Sind am exit – springen in ca. 10min.martin”
so we waited for about 30minutes . “EXIT” And then we saw martin and his friend jumping down over the “münchner kamine” downwards the dachstein southwall with their wingsuits. first the fly down closely over us and accelerated and then they turned right and flew close the southwall westwards and further to the south where they opened their parachutes on a small grassfield near a way. what a feeling to look to one of the best extreme sport.
after this nice interlude we climbed further the nice tour and finished at 12:00am at the ridge. the we climbed upwards the eastridge first to the exit point where the basejumper jumped down and then to the mountain top. what a nice feeling to reach the dachstein 2998m on a fair-minded tour. thx for harry who did a really nice climbing as a leader.
after our lunch we went to the western ridge and found a small start place, where harry and patrik startet their speedflyer and flew down to ramsau. respect!! i went down to the cable car, because i felt not comfortable to start the speedflyer alone in this really “stoney” starting place. in the winter i will fly for sure the dachstein! yeahh.
thx for this really great tour!
dachstein is everytime worth it.
cya on the mountains

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Hi Rockaddicts!
This day, Harry, Patrik, Andi and me, we drove to Hallstatt to climb the via ferrata seewand at this very hot day and fly down with the speedflyer.
we needed 3 hours for the great nice and steep 850m of altitude differerence tour. one handsize stone fell down from the climbers above us and passed patrik 1m’s beside him. in the route we had there really stunning views. amazing!
harry tried to manage all the tour without needing the artificial stuff like the steel cable and so on.
He did very well – Congratulations!
Then we went to the Gjaidalm for lunch. After some important drinks we further up to the krippenstein, and tried to find some starting place for starting our speedflyers. unfortunately the main wind was from southwest and we had some upwind, but everywhere there were so many “Latschen” and the top of the krippenstein is to flat.
the parachute flyers were waiting for some lower wind – thats the difference.
we need more wind , they less. crazy.
nevertheless we went to the fithfingers and then we drove down with the cable car, because the thunder storm was coming.
rather climb down the mountain with the speedflyer in the back than crashing into some rocks at the start with the ass – muhaaa

You start with a bag full of luck and an empty bag of experience.
The Trick is to fill the bag of experience before you empty the bag of luck.

cya on the windy mountains.
bernhard

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On Saturday we left Lago di Santa Croce and we drove to Cortina d’ Ampezzo to hike up some “real” mountains ;))
We started at the Refugio A. Dibona and wanted to climb the Via Ferrata Giovannni Lipella at the Tofana di Rozes.
First you have to climb in a gallery in the mountain.
unfortunately the gallery was full of ice! we thought we can save some weight and had left our crampon in the car. you can imagine the hard action inside the 800m’s of ice gallery.
nevertheless we managed this problem and we had to walk a little bit horziontally to beginning of the via ferrata giovanni lipella. what a name 😉
the via ferrata was really nice with some great views and some waterfalls.
in the middle we reached a passage where the tour was full in ice and we stopped here the tour. after a lunch break harry and patrik climbed up on some bands to the mountain top. i felt not really good because of the strong sun so i climbed down the via ferrata and walked around the area and visited the stunning galleries which were built for the first world war.
patrik and harry flew down to cortina and did there first 2000 metres flight.
in the evening we met mario and robert from guglhupf climbing.
we slept beside the refugio A. Dibona.

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Hi!
This Night we did the flooglightclimbing at the Camp Sibley.
What a warm and nice weather in October -i like it!

Hello!
Last day i drove with matthias mollner to Grünau in the Almtal with our aim to climb the 42 pitches in the northwall of the schermberg.
thats 1400 metres of altitude difference and normal climbing duration from 8 to 12 hours.
i tried this tour 6 years ago with buchsbaum reinhard, when we walked from 4am from the parking lot outside the gate to the wall. we managed to find the beginning of the tour at half past 10. thats too late for this tour. 🙁 so we holded off on this project.

the first problem is between 15.9 and 15.10 the street to the almtalerhaus is closed due to a hunt lock. so you have to walk 7km’s to the almtalerhaus. aaaah
from the almtalerhaus you must walk again 1.5hrs to the beginning of the wall.

so we drove “ilegal” at 17:15pm to the schermberg northwall. unfortunately one huntersman stopped us and said” he cannot allow this to go further to the almtalerhaus because they are planning to shoot some red deers”.
we explained our important project and the necessity to start early in the morning in the wall. so he allowed us only to sleep near the almtalerhaus, not near the wall – thats too dangerous sleeping in the nature, where the hunters want to shoot their deers. so we were lucky not to cancel the tour.

we find a small storage room near the almtalerhaus where we slept because of the humidity without tent…
during the night we listened many time to the deers. brrrrrrr.

at half past 4 in the morning we woke up and at 5am we started in the darkness with our mountain bikes from the almtalerhaus to the beginning of the schermberg north wall.
at 7:20am after 350 metres of altidude difference of the approach we started the to climb with the 4 tiblocks, so that we can do speed climbing. that does mean you can climb simultaneously, so you can spare a lot of time.
how to use tiblocs

perhaps you remember the film “am limit” from the huber buam. i felt like these guys when we climbed. you can imagine no long breaks only climbing and looking for the right way and take care for loosen stones and give maximum power. really!
the rocks moved like a conveyor. so i call it from now on conveyor climbing – thats my term 😉
i had to economize my luggaage, so i could only took photos with my handy cam 😉
for eating i had only two apples and some cereal bars and three litres of water. thats it.
we found a cave after the first pitch at the direct north ridge.
i walked 10m into the snow vulcano cave and then i through a stone downwards. i think the cave must be big because of the natural ventilation. if i have time i will explore this cave.
enough reported…

at 12:50 we managed the end of climbing and we were standing on the schermberg(2396m) summit. yeaaaaaaaaaaaaaaah
the view was really great. after lunch we climbed the new fixed rope route “tassilo” downwards in 50 minutes 😉
normally you need 3 to 5 hours upwards.

then we find a cool block for bouldering. so matthias and me we said let’s do it. 2km’s of climbing is not enough for us… we managed 3 new boulders and marked the beginning with an arrow. you can try it at the platform before the fixed rope route on the normal way.
2 chamois came up to five metres to us and looked how we try to climb up this block on a difficult way and not trying the easiest… 😉

then we climbed down to our mountains bikes and had a really nice downhill to the ödseen near the almtalerhaus where we did some swimming after this monster tour. what a nice refreshing. the schermberg north wall did a mirror in the lake. amazing nature.
we finished our tour at 17:05 at the parking lot.
it was another really great days in the mountains….
cya bernhard

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